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TOPIC: 3000 Rudders - All You Need to Know

3000 Rudders - All You Need to Know 3 years 6 months ago #404

  • Tony Hunt
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3000 rudder specs have changed over the years, which has made sourcing replacements a bit of a guessing game. Until now: I’ve just had my V3k blade cracked in a collision, and while looking for a replacement have completed (I think) my knowledge of the subject. Here are the relevant facts [additions/corrections welcome]:

Laser 3000s used RWO rudder fittings which have 9.5mm pintles (although RWO now also produce 8mm fittings).
V3000s use Sea Sure fittings with 8mm pintles.

Laser and early V3ks used two gudgeons on the boat, and two pintles on the rudder stock.

The latest V3k rudders have a pintle at the top and a gudgeon at the bottom.

The L3k had a 20mm thick blade, the early V3ks a 25mm blade and the latest V3ks about 31/32mm, so you could fit early blades into later stocks (with suitable packing pieces) but not vice versa.

Happily, all stocks have similar vertical spacing of the bearing surfaces (170mm), so swapping of rudder fittings is possible.

L3k rudders use the same blade as the Tasar and Laser 2
Early V3ks used a Laser EPS blade
Latest V3ks use the Vandercraft Phantom/K1 blade (and K1 stock)

Latest V3ks have fibreglass/foam blades, all the rest used (rusting) steel rod reinforced resin blades of the same construction as the Laser 1, except:

Laser 2 (hence L3k) blades are now also available in fibreglass/foam from Intensity Sails in the USA. Currently $199.99 plus $75 tracked postage at the time of writing.
GRP Tasar blades (same as above?) are available from tasarsailing.com in Lymington England for £294.39.

The Laser 2 stock also shares approx. the same 170mm fitting spacing and pintle diameters as the L3k, so should be usable on that boat, although you need to use a Laser or Laser 2 tiller with it. May apply to Tasar as well but uncertain.

So, all very simple isn’t it :unsure:

All of the rudders need tying on, preferably by rope tied through the upper fitting on the boat and over the top of the tiller. This not only stops you losing the rudder in a capsize, but also the inconvenience of having it come off. As a fiddly alternative, some pintles have holes in them, that allow you to thread a large split ring through them to achieve the same effect. All the clips on hulls and rudders that I’ve tried have been unreliable and served only to prevent me removing the rudder at the end of the day when I wanted to. Remove them, is my advice.
Last Edit: 11 months 3 weeks ago by Tony Hunt.
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